We went to the Cathedral in Semur-en-Auxois in Burgandy. At first the church, which was heavily restored by Violet Le Duc, left me a little cold. Like many French churches which are maintained by the state, it is a little musty. Like a tourist, I wandered around, impressed by the statuary and the restored medieval wall paintings.

Then my eye caught a statue in the nave of Jesus during his agony. In all previous depictions I had seen him standing. Here he was sitting with his hands bound and a crown of thorns on his head. The fact that he was sitting is important. He looked so defeated and helpless. Not defiant or even agonised as if just waiting miserably for something to happen. And he knows what it is to be.

As I stared at this statue, my mind drifted. I was filled with a sense of peace, joy and the presence of God. Then the moment passed. I was a tourist once more. I walked off but I had to come back again.