Today, a holy day for Muslims, we visited the Jama Masjid mosque. It is one of the most important in the Srinagar province and was built in 1400. The centre part of the mosque was busy with worshippers who squatted as they listened to a sermon. However, the side aisles were largely empty so I sat there and prayed, admiring the great wooden pillars which supported the roof, each one made from a single deodar tree, I later learnt.

Now sitting there, mesmerised by the chanting, almost alone in this great space, with its high roof and small latticed windows letting in a cool trace of light, I began to understand the power of Islam.

The day was hot and later we rested awhile in the Moghul gardens high above the city.