We took the mountain railway which snakes down 2000 metres from Shimla to Kalka. Shimla was the summer capital of the Raj and this railway was opened in 1903 so that the Viceroy and his entire government could escape the intense summer heat in Delhi. What a joy to travel on a slow moving train with all the doors and windows open allowing one to hang out of if they so wish. The whole thing was reminiscent of Kenneth More in the 1959 film the North West Frontier.

In comparison to the mountain railway, the cold, air conditioned express from Kalka to Delhi was positively boring. Arriving in Delhi’s main train station is a chaotic and boiling hot experience, even at 10pm. A mad ride through the town in an auto rickshaw was terrifying, but I am gradually getting used to them.