Just before evening prayer we went to Delhi’s oldest mosque, the Jama Masjid. Things weren’t helped by the fact that we were all tired and the heat was suffocating. The stones were too hot to walk on, but we still took off our shoes. However, everyone in the mosque was extraordinarily unfriendly! It was not as if there were many tourists there, but it was Ramadan and the men were lying about suffering, probably after hours without food or water, so I can’t blame them for their lack of welcome. I should say that when I went to the old mosque in Leh everyone was extraordinarily polite and welcoming.

The sheer weight of people, of colour and light was overwhelming in the Old Town. It struck me that if there is a God, how could he possibly keep and eye on so many people.